It is Wednesday, and I have been in Montevideo, Uruguay since Saturday. I return to Bs As tonight. If I had known how delightful and interesting this country was going to be, I would have visited sooner.
Only a three hour ferry ride across the Atlantic estuary of the Rio de la Plata from Buenos Aires, Montevideo is in many ways a step back in time, and it is wonderful because of this. Buenos Aires seems absolutely intense by comparison. The phrase one hears over and over when Montevideo is mentioned in conversation is "muy tranquilo", and it is true. Seemingly everyone, even bicyclists, carries a thermos of maté throughout the day, and the unhurried pace is incredibly appealing. Here, one has time to think, and conversations tend to reflect that thoughtfulness in unexpected ways.